DAY 2
An early morning began with a fabulous breakfast of fruit salad and yoghurt. This was followed by a detailed discussion about what to expect of the day’s rapids which were up to low class IV in the afternoon.
Each of the 3 rafts took turns leading through the rapids and then video taping the other rafts as they came through. Stopping to watch the other rafts provided excellent entertainment and educational pointers of what, and what not, to do.
That afternoon the benefits of having 2 roaming rescue kayaks was pointed out, to myself especially. Like anyone else who has come out of the raft in a class IV rapid can tell you, knowing help is on the way to pull you out of a ‘hole’ is comforting.
The second afternoon also gave us the opportunity to experience the precocious tenacity and entrepreneurial capacity of the native Peruvian traders. The previous expedition (of the week before) lost 2 oars, which they failed to locate. They had, in fact, been retrieved downstream by 2 Indians, who perched themselves on a cliff face awaiting the next expedition to pass so that they may offer to sell them back. It cost one of the guides a pair of boots to regain the oars, as the stock of reserves was running low.
Camp that evening was on a much sandier stretch. However, the exhaustion felt by all (except the guides) would have overcome even the rockiest of pillows.
DAY 3
This was the day for the true adventurers! Class V rapids, which I was looking forward to with trepidation after my separation from the raft the previous day. We did a portage around a class VI rapid which consisted of an almost blocked river (25 metres across) with a 2 metre gap between the ravine edge and a large boulder. The guides said they made it through on the navigatory trips they conducted at the beginning of the season. They, of course, are insane.
The final afternoon of the trip is a series of connecting class III+ rapids with nasty overhangs and a couple of drops. The morning was spent scouting the hardest section of rapids, with explanations of what would be required at each point (including how tightly we should be holding on for a 1½ metre drop).
There is no denying that, once we pushed off, second thoughts about proceeding overcame more than one of us. However, under threat of swimming to the pick up point with scorn heaped upon us, Jesus persuaded us to continue.
That set of rapids were truly awesome. We had to use everything we had learned, and more besides. Luck played a larger part of our making it through safely than was comfortable. At one point our raft was almost bent double and I almost concussed Jesus with my oar. Between each rapid there was very little time to recover before the next rapid was upon us.
Seeing the pick up point ahead of us, I experienced mixed emotions. Relief at surviving, joyful anticipation at the possibility of a hot shower back in Cuzco, and regret that it was all over.
On the 6 hour trip back to Cuzco (an extra hour climbing all the mountains we descended on the trip out), I asked myself if it was worth the money. Definitely. I am not a natural adventurer so I can’t say I eagerly awaited all the class IV+ rapids. However, it was just great to make it through all the challenges, both physical and mental.