Things to do in July
How to Keep Cool!
Hang out in a shady tea garden on the Bosphorus in Ortaköy.
What to see in Istanbul
Since this is the first installment, I figured I should write some suggestions about what to see in Istanbul.
Aya Sofya (Haghia Sofia) (Sultanahmet)
I have never seen such beautiful mosaics in my life. They seem to give off their own light.
Yerebatan Cistern (Sultanahmet)
Enter through a tiny building and descend into an underground lake full of the reflections of columns. It is calm and somber like a cathedral. It is a great place to escape from the July heat outside.
Spice/Egyptian Bazaar (Eminönü)
This is where to get your cheap saffron, apple tea, and Turkish delight. It isn’t pushy and overwhelming like the Covered Bazaar.
Eyüp (take a ferry from the inner side of the Galata bridge)
I love graveyards. Ottoman graveyards are particularly interesting. Eyup has the largest graveyard in Istanbul. The main site here is the mosque and tomb of Eyüp. It is one of the most important Islamic pilgrimage sites. Dress appropriately. (women: head scarves, long skirts, long sleeved blouses) Wear shoes that are easy to slip on and off.
Dolmabahçe
“The palace that bankrupted an empire”. On the Bosphorus with most or all of the original furnishings. Although, the Great Hall was damaged in the Earthquake last year, there is still a lot to see. The English tour of the harem gives a lot of interesting information about what life was like there.
Beyoglu and Istiklal
This was the European part of Istanbul. It has lots of Art Nouveau architecture, churches and embassies (now consulates). It also has loads of cafes, clubs, bars, and people. Don’t miss the lower part of Istiklal and the side streets between the Tünel entrance and Asmalimescit. This area is becoming very arty and Bohemian. Badehane is a good, casual place to stop and have a beer. Sometimes there is live music. Stop by the Yagmur Cybercafe to check your e-mail and eat apple pie. Eat a Turkish “home cooked” meal at the cafes on Jurnal Sokak. Visit the galleries. Then, finish the night off with a concert at Babylon.
Quirky Facts
The Ottomans were cool (a brief history lesson):
I have this thing for nomadic tribes who suddenly decide to go raging across the steppes, scaring the pants off sedate settled people. I like the way the Turks came storming in and conquered Constantinople. Actually, they sat on their butts for quite a while before hand. Finally, Mehmet II ascended the throne and said, “I’m sick of sitting on my butt, I want to conquer Constantinople.”
Constantinople was protected by strong land walls, the Marmara Sea and the Golden Horn. To prevent ships from entering the Golden Horn, there was a huge chain (and I suppose a few canons aimed at the opening). Mehmet II built a couple of fortresses (in 4 months), hired this guy to build the biggest gun in the world to bash the walls in and then one night, had his men carry their ships over land 4 miles or so from where Dolmabahçe is to Kasimpasa to give the Byzantines a nasty wake up call.
After they conquered the city, the Ottomans told the people. “If you resist, we’ll kick your butt. If you don’t resist, then you can keep your churches, your customs and do continue living your life as you want to live.” They kept their word. Due to this, Istanbul has a long history of cultural tolerance. There are Byzantine, Greek, French, Italian and Bulgarian Churches along with Jewish Synagogues. There are bunches of mosques, too. When you compare this to the Inquisition, and other violent attempts at conversion, you have to admit the Ottomans were cool.
I know you are dying to know this one:
In Turkey, the bird English speakers call “turkey” is called “hint”. This is the adjective form of “Indian” (from India).
More info about Istanbul and other stuff
An on-line journal of sorts about how I spent my weekends in and out of Istanbul. The emphasis is more on the places than my personal life.
Everything else (travel writings and photos of other places, stories, artwork, a game, etc. etc.)
All photos and text are copyrighted ©2000, Tamia Lum
Geography
Turkey is between the Black Sea and the Mediterranean. Greece and Bulgaria are to the West, Armenia, Iran and Azerbaijan are to the East.
Istanbul is in the Western part of the country and falls right on the border between Asia and Europe.
Accommodation
The area to the left of the Blue Mosque (if your back is to the Aya Sofya) has lots of small hotels ($45-80/double).
Sari Konak: Mom raved she could eat off the bathroom floor it was so clean. She also loved the hostess’ fresh jams at breakfast every morning (included in the price).
Hotel Poem: a little lower in price and quality than the Sari Konak but still decent.
Kybele: I love the decor.
For more listings, see www.istanbulshotels.com
Transport
Ticket info:
Akbil: a magnetic pass (with discount). You pay a deposit ($5) and purchase credit on it when needed. It is very convenient if you are going to do a lot of travel by public transportation. Before you leave Istanbul, return it and get your initial deposit back.
IETT Tickets: bought from ticket stands, some stores, sellers on the street.
Tokens: available at station.
Transport Types:
If you have to take a taxi from Sultanahmet, have your hotel call a reliable taxi service. Honest taxi drivers who might read this, excuse the generalization but you are greatly out numbered.
Airport Transportation:
To Taksim: take the Havas bus ($3.00) and get off at the last stop.
To Sultanahmet: take the Havas bus, get off at Aksaray and take the tram($.50) to Sultanahmet.
Money
June 19 – 611,000TL/$1
Cost of living: lunch $3-5, bread .15, bus ticket .50, local beer $1-3 depending on the place…. can be more), soft drink .50;
Admission to sites: $10 Dolmabahçe Palace; Trendy clubs and bars: $20+
Cheap Eats
Internet Cafes
The Yagmur Cyber Cafe Between Tünel and Asmalimescit in Beyoglu has a direct line and a power generator so you don’t have to worry about the sudden and fairly frequent Istanbul power outages.